FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER:LILLIAN BASSMAN

Lillian Bassman was born in 1917 and grew up in Brooklyn and Greenwich Village, New York, and studied at the Textile High School in Manhattan and graduated in 1933. She worked as a textile designer and fashion illustrator before working at Harper's Bazaar and ultimately becoming a photographer.
From the 1940s until the 1960s Bassman worked as a fashion photographer for Junior Bazaar and later at Harper's Bazaar where she promoted the careers of photographers such as Richard Avedon, Robert Frank, Louis Faurer and Arnold Newman.
Under the guidance of the Russian emigrant, Alexey Brodovitch, she began to photograph her model subjects primarily in black and white. Her work was published for the most part in Harper’s Bazaar from 1950 to 1965. By the 1970s Bassman’s interest in pure form in her fashion photography was out of vogue. She turned to her own photo projects and abandoned fashion photography. In doing so she tossed out 40 years of negatives and prints - her life’s work. A forgotten bag filled with hundreds of images was discovered over 20 years later. Bassman’s fashion photographic work began to be re-appreciated in the 1990s.
Bassman's fashion images are unique, and acheieve their effect through manipulation in the dark room. She worked with digital technology and abstract color photography into her 90s to create a new series of work. She used Photoshop for her image manipulation. The most notable qualities about her photographic work are the high contrasts between light and dark, the graininess of the finished photos, and the geometric placement and camera angles of the subjects.
Bassman became one of the last great woman photographers in the world of fashion. She died on 2012.

Chanel advertising campaign 1958

Elizabeth, 1997

Carmen having tea 1950

Harper's Bazaar 1951

Harper's Bazaar 1954

Harper's Bazaar 1950

Lingerie by Lily of France 1955

Night Bloom-Annalise Seubert in Chanel Haute Couture-New York Time magazine 1996

New York Time magazine 1997

Vogue, July 1956

Lillian Bassman