In the 1890s and early 900's, sleeves are becoming more voluminous, and the skirts have a bell shape, aided by heavy silks for which they are made, often lined to remain rigid. Under the skirt are gone tournure and wide saddles and now the volume on the sides and left to its natural shape. The neck is surrounded by a high collar, in contrast to the amplitude of the clothes, the hair is gathered in discrete chignon. Due to the large volume reached from the sleeves, they preferred short coat and large capes or pilgrims with high collars that frame the face.
Intorno al 1890 e l'inizio del '900 le maniche diventano sempre piu' voluminose, e le gonne hanno la forma a campana, favorita dalle pesanti sete di cui sono fatte, spesso foderate per rimanere rigide.
Sotto alla gonna sono spariti tournure e ampi sellini e ora il volume sui fianchi è lasciato alla sua forma naturale. Il collo e' fasciato da un colletto alto e montante e, in contrasto con l’ampiezza delle vesti, i capelli sono raccolti in discreti chignon.
A causa dell’ampio volume raggiunto dalle maniche, come soprabito si preferiscono corte e ampie mantelline o pellegrine dagli alti colli che incorniciano il viso.
CLOSET CASTLE di Annapaola Brancia d'Apricena
Renewed findings from the coffer of a castle
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| Late 800's blouse |
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| Fitting in the House of Worth 1907 |
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| Johon Singer Sargent-Mr.and Mrs. I.N. Phelps Stoklus (detail) 1897 |
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| Johon Singer Sargent- Miss Helen Duinham 1892 |
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| Charles Worth 1890 |
Related Article:http://www.scostumista.com/2015/12/from-800s-to-now.html
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